Zuni Day 1

Saturday, 8/26/06
I’m so tired but I am going to try and describe my day. It was remarkable in so many ways. I left my house around 5:45 AM for the airport where I was early for my flight (despite the ominous Orange security level).

Flight to Chicago uneventful. Flight to Albuquerque from there was a pain. We were in the midst of boarding – my group, 4, was announced – when people started getting off the plane. Apparently it was “broken” (seriously). So they got us a new gate and a new plane. Then we finally got on said plane and sat there an hour on the tarmac, first waiting for “food” from the first plane (that we never were served – it was probably for first class) then waiting in line for takeoff.

Finally arrive in NM, get the rental car, grocery shop (so hungry by this point – it is now a good 9 hours since I had anything to eat and it was just a muffin then) and drive the gorgeous 2.5 hour drive to Zuni.

Once in Zuni I find the hospital and Dr. B and get my linens and key. Key doesn’t work. Nice Zuni man (Andrew) comes and helps me and gets me the right key. Finally in and can put away my melted margarine and other stuffs.

Then the sounds of drumming is overwhelming and I decide to check out the Zuni Fair they have every year – ending tonight. It was incredible. It coincides with a carnival. There are rides and games and such at one part of the area, then there’s a stadium with traditional dancing and dance/singing competitions in another. And yet a third area houses a powwow. I didn’t take pictures – I read in one of the brochures they sent me that photos are not allowed.

I met a guy named Alvin and his son, Alec (pronounced al’Ek), and his son’s friend David. I ate fry bread with honey and drank some water. Between dancing and powwow and people-watching at the carnival I also ate some cotton candy. The vendor was a white guy. He looked at me and shouted “a white girl! I’m gonna have a heart attack!” Then, “Hey (whatever his helper’s name was), check it out, a white girl!” Then he looked at me like he was expecting me to say something - other than the "cotton candy, please" I had already said. I was tired and far from witty so I just said, “don’t have a heart attack” I think he felt a little strange for acting that way – and rightfully so! But it was true, there were Navajo, Zuni everywhere… and me.

I still hear the drumming and when the wind picks up I hear the chanting. I wanted to stay longer but thought I'd die from fatigue if I did.

The costumes: kids as buffalo with huge heads and fur down their back, furry hooves. So many colors. Rainbows of colors. Feathers – eagle feathers and huge feathers. Rattles and bows. Huge feathered get-ups rivaling Carnivale – haloed behind heads and like wings on the back. Head dresses. Turquoise - so much of it. Especially on the women – they are adorned in enormous beaded necklaces, bracelets, turquoise rings, oval stones laid in silver, nearly the length of their fingers.

I was often reminded of Africa – maybe because the sand is such a similar color: a reddish clay color. Maybe it was the dancing, the outfits, or maybe it was just my fatigue.

Now I must head to bed. It’s 2:30 am my time and I’ve been up more than 20 hours.

The stars are incredible here.